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Vancouver Island.

SOOKE


Sooke Coastline
The small village of Sooke lies less than an hour from the city of Victoria after a scenic drive along the south side of Vancouver Island on Highway 14. Surrounded by beautiful natural scenery, it has much to offer in terms of outdoor activities including ocean kayaking, cycling, whale watching, and hiking.

For the more macabre among you, there are several vantage points for storm watching. Sooke is also a great place to start gathering information about Vancouver Island, with a very well-appointed visitor’s bureau at the beginning of the village. There you will find knowledgeable staff, tons of free information and even a free historic museum called the Sooke Region Museum. You can also find out more about Sooke's history of logging and fishing, as well as the history of the First Nations people in the region. Guided tours of Moss Cottage are available and you can take in the outstanding view from the heritage lighthouse.

EAST SOOKE REGIONAL PARK


Sealions in East Sooke Regional Park
About 5km before Sooke village, you'll find the East Sooke Regional Park. It offers 60km of trails along the coast and through forests on 1.435 hectares.

The coastal trail is well signposted, but it is not for beginners, and some climbing over cliffs and clambering over rocks is required. Spectacular views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Olympic Mountains, which are actually located in USA territory, will make it well worth the effort. Among the wildlife that can be observed are bald eagles, sea otters, sea lions, seals, many different bird species, and if you're really lucky you may even see an Orca.


East Sooke Regional Park
After the hike, the local bakery in Sooke is a very inviting place to relax with a hot cup of cocoa and excellent brioches. Alternatively you can marvel at the many European offerings in the supermarket next door.

SOOKE POTHOLES

The famous Sooke potholes are another Sooke attraction not to be missed. They lie slightly north of the town. These deep water pools, the "potholes", were naturally carved by the Sooke River into its sandstone bedrock during the last ice age. In the summer the potholes are a favorite with swimmers, and in the fall and winter months you can watch the salmon spawning, run, or just walk alongside the river trails to see the waterfalls, canyons and temperate river rainforest all around.


A Mural in Chemainus
© Tourism Vancouver Island

CHEMAINUS – "THE LITTLE TOWN THAT DID"

About an hour and a half north of Victoria along Highway 1, the quaint little village of Chamainus nestles between a mountain range and the ocean. The village is famous for its outdoor murals which make it well worth the visit.

What started as a mining, lumber mill and fishing village populated partly by Chinese immigrants is today known for its artists' depictions of mainly historic scenes in more than 3 dozen outdoor murals on house walls (37 to be exact). Add in twelve sculptures and you can appreciate that this community is a must-see for those of you who love art. After the mill closed in 1982 the town needed a way to revitalize itself, and the driving force behind the art project was a local German/Canadian business man, Karl Schutz. The visitor's bureau is a good place to pick up information and maps, and claims that Chemainus is known worldwide as the largest outdoor gallery with approximately 400,000 visitors a year. Well, who are we to argue?


Black Cat Mural
© Chemainus Chamber of Commerce

The whole village is very well maintained, and they are very proud of their heritage. The town has a huge array of tourist shops, galleries and restaurants, and there are footsteps on the pavement that lead past all the murals, so just follow them to see every one! The murals are drawn by many different artists and in different styles, so there is something for everyone. You can also take a side trip to Thetis Island from the little ferry dock in the harbor.

LAKE COWICHAN

For the more adventurous holidaymaker, the Pacific Marine Circle Road is being rebuilt to follow the South Coast past Sooke all the way to Port Renfrew. Along the way you will see amazing beaches, charming old villages, beach cabins, historic lighthouses, many provincial parks and incredible wildlife.

After the coast, the road leads inland along old logging roads and through forests to Lake Cowichan, Vancouver Island's second largest lake with many tourist attractions around it, and finally back to Victoria on the East Coast, altogether about a 255km stretch, and well worth the drive.

COOMBS

From Highway 1 (also known locally as Highway 19) along the east coast of the island, turn west inland onto Highway 4A and you will soon see the green roofs of the small and charming town of Coombs. Coombs was established at the turn of the twentieth century by families who arrived with the Salvation Army's immigration program, which brought nearly a quarter of a million poor English and Welsh to Canada. The community was named after the Army's Canadian Commissioner, Captain Thomas Coombs.

Around the little town you will find souvenir, antique, jewelry and art/crafts shops, and even a little amusement park for the kids, but most visitors come to see the famous goats on the roof. The town has a Western/Saloon style, and many of the almost-flat roofs have thick grass growing on them. On the largest building of all, the Old Country Market, you will find the famous goats, happily chomping away, oblivious to their celebrity status. Inside the Old Country Market is an amazing array of gourmet foods, local crafts and imported knick-knacks.

LITTLE QUALICUM RIVER FALLS PROVINCIAL PARK


Qualicum Falls
On Highway 4 westwards from Parksville towards Port Alberni and soon after Cameroon Lake, you will see signs for Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park -- a highly recommended stop and great hiking area. It straddles the scenic Little Qualicum River. The waterfalls cascade down a rocky gorge in a beautiful forest setting, and can be truly be described as impressive. The lower falls are easily reachable on a network of trails, and the steep cliffs and deep canyons (with many amazing vantage points) provide a definite thrill for the adventurous. You can also follow the river to reach other waterfalls, and climb on the mossy rocks for even better vantage points. The river is great for summer swimming, but the lush green of the wet season is just as good.

BRITISH COLUMBIA'S ORCHID GARDENS WITH BUTTERFLY WORLD

Continue along the Pacific Rim Highway inland and you will find the British Columbia Orchid Gardens, and Butterfly World and Gardens. Inside the huge heated greenhouse you can stroll among exotic butterflies, birds and many tropical plants.

The butterfly gardens are a fantastic experience, especially when it's wet and cold outside. Hundreds of thousands of butterflies ranging from the largest Giant Atlas Moth to the tiniest Red Periot surround the visitor, along with colorful tropical finches. The butterflies can be observed sucking juices from fruit and flowers or even landing on visitors. The lush flowers, the warmth and the perfume of the flowers will soon have you feel like you're walking in a jungle. There are signs that explain about the life cycle of the butterflies and the breeding cages at the front by the visitors shop.


Butterfly Gardens
© Oceanside Tourism
Next door is the orchid house, with streams, ponds, waterfalls and hundreds of blooming orchids, beautifully arranged around the water. Their shape and color rival the butterflies for beauty and perfection. For anyone wanting to bring out the small boy in themselves, there's also the Big Bug Jungle, with terrariums that show all kinds of crawling and slithering creatures such as beetles, spiders, chameleons and turtles.

Outside is a garden that shows visitors what native plants and shrubs we can use at home to attract butterflies and hummingbirds to our own gardens.

Another tropical attraction is the World Parrot Refuge in Coombs, which provides a home for rescued parrots discarded by their owners. Educational and dedicated to parrot health, the refuge tries to raise awareness of health issue surrounding parrots in captivity. The refuge has created an almost-natural environment for the birds, with 23,000 square feet of heated indoor free-flight aviaries, and 16,000 square feet of easily accessed outdoor flights for the warmer months.

Butterfly World and Gardens

CATHEDRAL GROVE


Cathedral Grove
Just another five kilometers along Hwy #4, at the end of Cameroon Lake, is the very popular Cathedral Grove in MacMillan Provincial Park, with trails on either side of the road. The main attraction is the towering Douglas firs, which reach to a magnificent canopy up to 76 meters in height, and can be up to 800 years old. Rays of sun filter down to the ferns, and huge fallen trees cover the ground. In the midst of this temperate rainforest everything is covered with lush green presenting the tourist with many photo opportunities. Some paths are still closed due to last year’s storm but it is worth making your way to the lake and viewing the trees from all sides. The effect is humbling, and not to be missed.

WILD PACIFIC TRAIL

The Wild Pacific Trail at the end of Ucluelet goes along the rugged and beautiful coastline by the Amphitrite Point Lighthouse, and is definitely worth a hike. The open Pacific Ocean is a magnificent sight, and the high waves splashing up on the cliffs and little islands are amazing to watch, as are the tide pools with all the wildlife that they leave behind. Bald eagles are common here and the plentitude of nests gives evidence to their annual return for breeding and raising their young.

UCLUELET (Population 1,753)


Ucluelet
Continue along Highway 4 past more hiking and viewing opportunities, such as Clayoquot Plateau and the massive Kennedy Lake, and you will soon reach the Pacific Rim National Park, where the road leads either left to Ucluelet or right to Tofino. The 8km detour to Ucluelet is definitely worth it even if it wasn't in your original itinerary.

Ucluelet can be described as Tofino's smaller, hard-working and industrious brother. You can see the fishing industry going about its work, and there are some tourist shops and plenty of hotels, motels and campgrounds around town that may have more reasonable rates than in more upscale Tofino. There are also several small surfer shops, and 60s-style cafes that are more than welcoming. In addition, there are some more traditional tourist activities such as whale watching on offer.

ENGLISHMAN RIVER TRAILS

The Englishman River Trails and waterfalls are on Highway 4A just after Coombs, almost back at the east coast, and are definitely worth a small detour. Well-signed trails lead through rainforest to the waterfalls. There are elevated trails along the river that lead to the falls, and the scenic beauty is so spectacular that pictures of it are in many tourist brochures in the area.

Huge amounts of water rush over the edge of the falls, and a walking bridge is strategically placed for the best views. Behind the falls on the other side of the bridge are deep, glass-clear pools that lead down to a gurgling river. In the middle of the river on small stone islands many visitors have left a legacy, building little river-stone towers which look beautiful and almost eerie in the gleaming sunlight.

TOFINO (1.286 Einwohner)


Tofino
Because of its natural beauty Tofino is very popular with people from all over the world.

The lodging options range from large luxury hotels to more economical options like the local hostel (which even has its own sauna) and many family-run bed and breakfasts. There are off-season bargains to be found at mid-range hotels, such as a full suite including kitchen and hot tub access for under Can$100 (winter rate). Tofino is also home to many fine restaurants

Many activities are offered by the numerous tour operators in town. The most popular are boat tours to see the whales and the island, which are available many times a day.

Also worth checking out in Tofino are the Botanical Gardens, the Whale Center Museum and the Rainforest Interpretive Centre. Tofino has everything you need for a well-rounded, all-year, fabulous and fun family destination, and at least three days are recommended.

HOT SPRING COVE

The Hot Spring Cove Tour is not to be missed. The trip takes about an hour and a half, and along the way you can see more spectacular, unspoilt natural beauty, often including black bears, whales and orcas pointed out by the knowledgeable captain. At the landing dock for the cove a boardwalk leads about 2km through the rainforest to the hot springs. Enjoy a soak in the hot water with your new friends -- the pools are on the small side, and very popular, allowing you to enjoy the warmth of the hot springs in the rocks right above the cold splashing ocean.

The trip back is in the open ocean and makes for a fun roller coaster ride along the bigger waves, but the closed-in boat makes for a comfortable ride.

SPROAT LAKE


Sproat Lake
Just past Port Alberni is Sproat Lake, which offers all kinds of boating, fishing and other water activities. It is worth stopping several times along the lake (Highway 4 leads right by it) for the magnificent views of the water with the mountains behind it and the clouds lifting slowly from the forests. All around the lake are more hiking opportunities and scenic picnic spots.

PORT ALBERNI


Port Alberni
Soon after Mount Arrowsmith, you will come into Port Alberni, a popular starting point for many adventurers. It is the last large community in the Pacific Rim region, before the 2.5 hour winding drive down to the west coast, and is a good spot to find a reasonably priced motel and plentiful dining options. Port Alberni is a fishing community, sitting astride a 35 kilometre saltwater channel called the Alberni Inlet that cuts deeply into Vancouver Island. The spectacular scenery of the Alberni Valley is the setting for some outstanding excursions, on land and on water, including kayaking, hiking, windsurfing, and some of the best freshwater and saltwater fishing you'll ever experience.

In Port Alberni you can also find a passenger ferry that goes every other day and takes about four hours to Ucluelet. The times and details may change so make sure to find out in advance. Port Alberni is also right next to Mount Arrowsmith, the tallest mountain on Vancouver Island, 1819m high and a sight to behold in the sunset with its snow covered top. The mountain used to have a skiing area but due to low snow levels and increased running costs it has closed down and now boasts a network of hiking trails instead.

Also nearby are many other popular hiking areas, like China Creek Regional Park and Limestone Mountain. Also, the only road to Bamfield at the bottom east side of the Alberni Inlet leads through Port Alberni. It is a long, windy ride on unpaved logging roads but well worth it for the wilderness and the amazing sights including many black bears and First Nations villages.


Mount Arrowsmith
Port Alberni also boasts some exciting family attractions. Right at the Harbour Quay, the Maritime Discovery Centre features hands-on exhibits and displays on seafaring activities, the workings of the original 1900 Chrome Island Lighthouse, the sights and sounds of a modern harbour, an underwater camera that looks into the harbour, heritage lookouts, rescue lifeboats, and nuch more.

In July 2005, Port Alberni hosted the world-famous Tall Ships and celebrated these maritime marvels with a very successful festival. The Tall Ships return every three years. The next Port Alberni Tall Ships Festival is scheduled for 2008.

PACIFIC RIM NATIONAL PARK


West Coast Vargas Island
If you retrace the road by 8 km back to the T-junction and follow it about 15km to Tofino, you will reach the Pacific Rim National Park, a declared Unesco Biotop Heritage site.

The official park charges an entrance fee of about Can$6 that includes many of the beaches. The resort town of Tofino sits right at the end of the land spit surrounded by islands, sounds and inlets.

Along the Pacific coast towards the town are the most popular surfing areas in Canada where the ocean hits Long Beach and the sandy beaches stretch many kilometers long, splattered with the scenic beauty of little rocky islands and inlets. Granted, the surfers must wear thick wet suits not to feel the cold of the Pacific Ocean but that doesn't seem to take away from their enthusiasm and many hours can be spend watching them practice in this spectacular scenery. About 10,000 grey whales swim by the coast every year to get to their breeding grounds in Mexico, and the whale migration also attracts thousands of visitors.

NANAIMO

For anyone interested in Vancouver Island, Nanaimo is already a familiar name. The port town is the second largest on Vancouver Island and has much to offer both for the active traveler and the sightseer.

Taking Highway 1 north from Victoria, Nanaimo is a good 90 minute drive. In the past, Nanaimo has been a place to to pass through, perhaps to head west to Port Alberni and reach Ucluelet or Tofino. However, this trend has been changing for the last several years and many have come to recognize the charm and attraction of this town. Downtown and the small port area are especially worth stopping to take a look at. If you like rummaging around small independent shops to get away from the large shopping centers, Nanaimo is just for you. There are a large number of these small independent businesses in the downtown area. The Old Town quarter has many, in addition to those in the China Steps area, another smaller part of town. If you have time for a two-minute walk from the Old Town to China Steps, you can take in Commercial Street, so that you'll have seen all the best shopping areas downtown.

Looking for Martinis and Sushi? You are in the right place for that as well! Just as you can find a chip or a doner kebab shop everywhere in Germany, you can find Martinis and Sushi places all over Nanaimo!

Especially in the summer, but also in the spring or fall, there are many outdoor activities available. Besides the well-known island activities such as whale or bear watching, sailing, and hiking across the mud flats, there are also a few exceptional possibilities, some of them worldwide one-of-a-kinds. For instance, Nanaimo offers one of the world's best cold water diving spots.

The harbour also has a lot of interesting opportunities. The most special one is probably a kayak trip to the Snake Island, which is famous for its large number of seals. If you have plenty of experiences with seals and diving in cold water, or you have a guide, you can dive here as well and experience the seals face to face. And for those who are not interested in diving, there is lot more to discover. For example, there are two little ferries going across to Protection and Newcastle Island. If you are interested in nature, with no cars or houses, and maybe camping, then Newcastle Island is exactly what you are looking for. On the other hand Protection Island offers entertainment in a whole different way. North America’s only floating pub is located directly on the coast of this little island and it has an indescribable ambience. The best spots to hike and bike are definitely Newcastle Island and Gabriola Island. Gabriola Island is also known as a residence for artists and contains a couple of lovely art shops.

The most beautiful park that you can find in Nanaimo is certainly Westwood Lake. With the nearby mountain, it is also an attraction for advanced hikers. Anyone who still has some energy left after the hike might want to have a look at the Nanaimo River. Attention: make sure that you ask for good spots to swim, because it is not safe everywhere. And please do the same for cliff jumping too!

Finally there is the marina where you catch the water plane from Nanaimo to Vancouver. It offers you an awesome view over the Gulf Islands, which are located off the coast of the island.

Text and Photos: Katja Klöpfer, Monika Onken, Sabine Wolff and Carsten Klöpfer

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